Check Your Handlebars For An Easy Way To Increase Comfort
One way to get an idea of what width handlebars works best is to measure the distance between your shoulder blades. Have someone hold a yardstick against your back to take a reading.
Check Out Our Recent Post About Saddle Position HERE!
Handlebar-Shoulder Ratio:
Drop handlebars come in sizes ranging from about 38-cm to 44-cm wide and you select by matching the width of your shoulders. So, if the distance between your shoulder blades is 42-cm, that's what the handlebar width should be, measured from the center of the other end. Some manufacturer's measure from outside-to-outside, so check with us if you're not sure.
Improve Breathing and Control
The right bar width will provide comfort and increased efficiency because you'll be able to breathe better. It's especially noticeable if you've been using too-narrow a drop handlebar and you climb frequently. You'll appreciate additional leverage too, whenever you stand.
Adjusting Flat Bars
For flat handlebars, width has more to do with riding preferences. The cool thing is, we can cut down handlebars that are too wide, meaning you won't have to replace yours if they don't feel right.
Try Bar Ends
Remember that you can change the feel of a flat handlebar and give yourself some room to stretch out by installing bar ends. These are also excellent for climbing because they give you a great pulling position and move your body weight forward (when you're gripping the bar ends), which helps keep the front end down on the steep stuff.
Try Higher Bars
Riser bars are also available, which are models that slope upwards on the ends to provide less bend in your back when you lean forward to grab the grips. Many off-roaders find that risers are just the ticket for a more comfortable position. THey're also typically a bit wider than flat bars to provide additional leverage, which is helpful on technical terrain.
Try "High-Rise" Handlebars
There are also handlebars designed for more leisurely riding, which you'll find on cruisers and city bikes. These are sometimes called "sweep," "high rise," "comfort" or "cruiser" bars, and they'll raise your riding position the most.
Usually, riders who enjoy demanding, technical trails appreciate a little additional width (24 to 27 inches), especially if they're using dual-suspension frames. All-round riders prefer a more standard width of about 22 inches.
Make A 2013 Trek Bike All Your Own With Trek Project One! Add Your Favorite Gruppo, Components, Color Schemes and Wheel Size (MTB)
Trek now allows you to do just that. Project One, Trek's industry-leading custom bike program has expanded to include Trek's most popular mountain bikes. This program allows riders to design a custom product that is tuned to your preferences.
The available bikes for customization are a collection of the best 29ers Trek has to offer: The Superfly 9.9 SL, the Superfly 100 9.9 SL, and the all-new Fuel EX 9.9 29.
John Riley, Trek's Mountain Bike Product Manager says: "Customization is at the core of what mountain bikes are all about since Gary Fisher and company first created them in the 1970's. Project One is the modern embodiment of that. Project One mountain bikes are something that our customers have asked about for a long time and be able to offer riders so many options is awesome"
Mountain bikes customized through Project One will be fully customizable front-to-back, tuned specifically to each rider's unique spec requirements with an unparalleled parts offering. each Project One will be a unique reflection of the combination of the personal and riding style of the individual. With unparalleled custom options int he bike industry, Project One will allow riders to select from the following features to create a bike that is truly one-of-a-kind.
Control over the final build ranges from choosing from stock options which won't change the final price, to custom paint jobs or component upgrades that will boost the price accordingly. You can even color match the decals on the fork! Users will be able to change size options for components through their local dealer's P1 account as well, picking the right stem, bar, saddle, and crank lengths to fit.
Here is the list of customizable pieces of the bike:
Correct Saddle Position Can Make Your Ride 100% More Comfortable
When you're in pain, the tendency can be to make drastic changes to alleviate the suffering. But, if you change the position too much, while you may ease the pain temporarily, you'll surely create other problems and you might cause an injury to your knees, back, hands or posterior. Here are some guidelines to adjusting the seat, and a few recommendations if seat adjustments don't solve your saddle sores. VIDEO: Need a super comfortable bike to help you get back into cycling? Check Out The 2013 Trek Shift 2
Cycling Clothing Helps
It is best to wear cycling shorts when trying to find the most comfortable seat position, as they are designed for pedaling with a padded and seam-free crotch. It's the seams in regular clothing like jeans and shorts that cause most saddle discomfort. Keep the Seat Approximately Level
One of the simplest seat adjustments is angling the seat slightly up or down. But, never set the nose more than three degrees lower (women can prefer slightly tipped down seats) or higher (typical men preference) than parallel. Rest a level on the saddle's top while making adjustments so you can gauge the amount you're tipping it and keep it within the three-degrees range. If you tip it further, you risk injury. Don't Move The Seat To Adjust Handlebar Reach
Another mistake to avoid is determining your seat position based on the reach of the handlebars. Sometimes, if it feels like the bars are too far away, you might be tempted to slide the seat forward to reduce the reach. This solves the reach problem, but your seat position should be based on your relationship to the pedals, which will minimize chance of injury and maximize your power when you're riding. The correct way to make size adjustments such as reach is to change the stem length (the part that holds the handlebars) after you determine your appropriate saddle position. We can help, if you need to make changes. Try a New Seat Something to consider if you're searching for a solution to pain and not finding it in saddle adjustment is that your seat might be the incorrect model for your anatomy. It must provide support for your pelvic bone structure along with the way you sit on and pedal your bike. If it's a poor fit, no amount of adjusting will solve the problem. The cure is to try a different seat to see if it does the trick. We have a wide selection and we can recommend models that have worked for other customers.
Bumstead's is located on 1038 W. 4th St. in
Ontario. You can reach us at 909-984-9067 or check out our website: www.bumsteadsbikes.com
The Best Mountain Bike Trails in Ontario, California
www.bumsteadsbikes.com (909) 984-9067
The first place is in La Verne called Marshall Canyon. It started as an equestrian trail, but now allows cyclists and runners too. It's a great place to ride from beginner trails to expert singletrack stuff.
The second best is Bonelli Park in Pomona. They've also got fire road and singletrack all interconnected. You can get some maps from Bonelli's website. http://www.bonellipark.org/
From beginner to expert, get out to the local trails and have a blast!
We are Bumstead's Bicycles and we are here to provide you with all you need when it comes to cycling and your bicycle buying experience. Stop by the store today - 1038 W. 4th St. Ontario, CA.
Quick And Easy Tips To Improving Your Shifting and Extending The Life Of Your Drivetrain
It is extremely important to learn how to use all of the equipment on your bike so that you can use it properly and get the longest life out of your investment. The Drivetrain and shifting mechanisms are no exception.
An important rule to remember is to reduce your applied pressure on the pedals during shifts. As drivetrains have seen many improvements over the years, and have been designed to shift no matter how much pressure is put on the pedals. However, if you ease up on the pressure just a bit, the shifts will be smoother and your chain, cogs and chainrings will last longer.
Here are some more tips to help keep your drivetrain in great working order:
Keeping Your Drivetrain Clean:
Before we even get into proper shifting, it is important to make sure you keep your drivetrain clean and tuned up to extend the life of your drivetrain. We have chain cleaners for sale in the shop that can help get your chain clean and keep it that way.
Every six months or so, inspect your chain and measure to see if it has been stretching.
Pick a chain pin on the top side and measure to any pin 12 inches away. Links are exactly one-inch long, so you should be able to measure exactly 12 inches between two pins. If the measurement is 12 1/8 inch or longer, it's time to replace the chain.
Remember: cogs wear out at about the same rate as the chain. If you put on a new chain, you will eventually run into skipping cogs - which is at best annoying and at worst dangerous!
Remember to keep the front rings and rear cogs clean. Stay on the lookout for a post about how to clean your chain and drivetrain!
On The Road Tips:
Shift Before Hills:
Even though the hardest place to put less pressure on your pedals is when you are struggling to get up a steep hill. Try changing gears before the steep part of the hill so you can make the shift with out stressing the chain and pedals.
Front Shifts:
Remember when you are shifting the front derailleur that the chainrings are significantly different in size! This means your derailleur has to work hard to move the chain from one to the other. If you can add some finesse to this shift, you are much more likely to get a clean, smooth shift. And, you'll eliminate problems associated with high pressure shifts such as having the chain come off.
There are three or four set spots (shift ramps/shift gates) on the chainrings to make it shift. The chain (while moving forward) needs to contact these ramps to be pulled up onto or down over the chainring. It is very important to hold the shift until the chain comes into contact with a shift ramp. When the chain is under load (meaning there is force on the pedals) this is the ony spot where the chain will shift. Ideally shifting should be done with little load on the chain. When the chain is under load the derailleur will just flex and laugh at you instead of making the shift happen. When there is no load on the chain the derailleur will be able to move it.
Getting Your Chain BACK On:
Usually, you can shift the chain right back on the chainring if it falls off. This is usually impossible when climbing a hill, as you will lose momentum and have to stop. However, any time you are riding and you can coast for a few seconds, you can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedaling and shifting the front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring.
(When a chain comes off repeatedly, something is wrong and you should have us take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.)
All
the wheels are 11-speed ready to go with the new components. The non
drive side has been pushed out to 7mm to maintain proper triangulation,
and the freehub body is 1.85mm wider. The new rims are called D2 and are
23mm or 24mm wide depending on the model. Shimano also gave them a
deeper tire bed to allow the tire to fit snugly to the sidewall, not
allowing a gap on the clinchers. These combined features balance frontal
and side aerodynamics.
Shimano has gone out of their
way to make the rims perform better and more comfortable. They have
given a new profile to the deeper wheels to help offset the effects of
crosswinds, and receive a new lacing and hub design to improve response
and speed.
The clincher rim weight comes in around 383g while the tubeless one is
about 420g.
Here are some Features:
WH-9000-C24-CL 24mm Carbon/Alloy Laminate Clincher
• Carbon laminate construction rim
• Clincher only
• Off-set rim with wide flange hub
• 100% Ti FH body
• 1364g
WH-9000-C24-TL 24mm Carbon/Alloy Laminate Tubeless Clincer
• Shimano Road Tubeless and tube compatible rim
• Carbon laminate construction rim
• Off-set rim with wide flange hub
• 100% Ti FH body
• 1454g
All
the wheels use a FULL titanium freehub body. Shimano's previous freehub
mechanism had a titanium outer section, but the internal bits were
steel.
The C35 has 35mm deep rim and comes in clincher and a full carbon tubular.
Full specs are:
WH-9000-C50-CL 50mm Carbon/Alloy Composite Clincher
• 23mm D2 rim profile
• Opt-Bal 2:1 lacing
• Carbon/Alloy construction
• Extra wide flange hub
• 100% Ti FH body
• 1672g
WH-9000-C50-TU 50mm Carbon Tubular
• 24mm D2 rim profile
• Opt-Bal 2:1 lacing
• 100% High modulus carbon construction
• Extra wide flange hub
• 100% Ti FH body
• 1449g
Lastly the tallest wheels are the C75 and only come as a full carbon fiber tubular. Features are:
WH-9000-C75-TU 75mm Carbon Tubular
• 24mm D2 rim profile
• Opt-Bal 2:1 lacing
• 100% High modulus carbon construction
• Extra wide flange hub
• 100% Ti FH body
• 1545g
Plus, the wheels come with some sleek looking skewers
The
9000-series Dura-Ace hubs, like all of the complete wheels, continue to
use Shimano's cup-and-cone angular contact bearing system. It's
reliable, easy to service and Shimano says it's strong and rolls smooth.
The big changes are the move to 11-speed and a full titanium freehub
assembly like on the wheels.
Tyler Benedict of Bikerumor.com caught a super sneak peek at the new Trek Superfly 29er at the Trans-Sylvania Epic which is America's Longest Mountain Bike Stage Race Experience in Central Pennsylvania.
Benedict talks about a few of the frame changes from the current Superfly AL model; saying that the most important change is the, "thru-axle rear end and more heavily shaped hydroformed tubes. It also gets revised cable routing with internal runs for shifting. Graphics and naming scheme are also different"
Watch as Gee Atherton is put to the test against a Falcon
Downhill mountain bike legend, Gee Atherton, is hunted by the fastest bird in the world, a peregrine falcon. Set in the epic landscape of Antur Stiniog, North Wales, Gee is tested in the ultimate experiment between man and bird.
Which Cycling App is Best? Here are The Top 5 for Android, brought to you by Danny Stieben of www.makeuseof.com
Riding a bicycle is a great way to get exercise, as well astrain your body to be physically fit. A key component of training is tracking your progress, and that can be difficult to accomplish without the right tools. With an Android phone, you’ll have plenty of apps at your disposal to plan, calculate, and track your bicycle rides. They can also provide great ways to connect to acommunity geared toward improving physically, which is sometimes the motivation that people need. This way, you’ll easily be able to improve yourself by knowing your stats and competing with your friends or even friendly strangers.
Some of these tools are more complex than others, and some may be used to track other forms of exercise, too. No matter which tool you end up going with, the important thing is to get out there and get some cycling done. Tracking is just a bonus — it’s not the end game.
Endomondois arguably the most popular sports tracking app available on Android, and it’s also one of my personal favorite cycling apps for Android. It can easily track your cycling outings, and give you plenty of information after your workout. It shows you a map with the path that you took, along with the distance, time, calories burned, average speed and pace, and how much hydration you probably need after the workout. Endomondo can also be used for a long list of other workouts, including running, roller skiing, and more.
Another fantastic feature about Endomondo is that you can share your workouts to the Endomondo community as well as social media, which can be used to get comments of encouragement from others or as bragging rights.
Strava Cycling is another excellent app which can easily track your cycling workouts. It offers an excellent user interface, and like Endomondo, it can map your path, and show you the time and distance. However, you can also look at your collective stats, earn achievements, compare yourself in leaderboards in a number of scenarios including riding the same route segments as your friends, and join challenges in which you can win gear. Strava also offers its own community where people can look at their friends’ workouts and encourage them.
The idea behind Strava is that you don’t just push yourself to improve on your own times, but you also compare yourself to others as you try to go from the bottom of the leaderboard to the top. Strava does an excellent job at offering plenty of competitive features that indirectly use other people to push you, and that may be the different type of motivation that some people need for workout success.
If you’re looking at a simpler workout tracker for your cycling outings, then I’d recommend BicyComp. When you first launch the app, it offers you four different layouts, which include varying amounts of information and screen space dedicated to a map. Depending on what you choose, you could see a map, speed, distance, and a handful of time-related stats.
BicyComp doesn’t have an online community, so all workouts will be saved locally if you choose to do so. Otherwise, it’s just a good way to keep track of each workout as you’re doing it.
The only issue that I’ve found is that the map may not automatically move to your current position, so you may have to do that manually. However, it does still find your location and tracks the path you take.
If you live in the UK, you’re in luck. Bike Hub Cycle Journey Planner is an app which allows you to plan your cycling routes using OpenStreetMaps before you actually go out cycling.
Once you’re out and about, the app can give you turn by turn directions, including cycling paths in addition to roads. You can also choose between the shortest, fastest, and quietest routes when generating directions. You can even find nearby bike shops if you need any of their services.
While the app uses OpenStreetMaps to display the map, the information it uses for bike routes and bike shops come from a separate, UK-only source. That’s why the app doesn’t work outside of the UK.
If you’re out cycling for long distances, you should focus on getting your cadence at an acceptable level. The cadence is the amount of revolutions per minute you make with the pedals. Ideally, your cadence should be between 80 and 120 rpm so that you don’t put too much strain on your legs as well as move them too quickly.
With the Cadence Calculator for Cycling, you can calculate your cadence and gear inches by entering your front gear size, rear gear size, and traveling speed. In order to be sure that you’re using the correct measurements (and therefore receive the correct calculations), you’ll need to go into the settings and choose your wheel circumference, chainrings, and cassette. As such, the calculator only works if your bike’s parameters are supported, but the list is quite large.
Conclusion
These five cycling apps for Android should give you quite a start at tracking and optimizing your cycling outings. While I find Endomondo to be the most useful out of these 5 apps, you’ll be fine by using any of the others.
Depending upon you sweat rate and the weather, you lose anywhere from 1 to 2 quarts of perspiration an hour.
On
rides, you must replace this fluid loss with more than just water
because you're not only losing H2O, but also vital nutrients. Energy
drinks are best because they contain the electrolytes and nutrients lost
through sweating.
Energy drinks also provide carbohydrates to fuel the muscles. But it's got to be an energy drink you enjoy because if it tastes good, you'll drink more. And, if it tastes bad, you won't drink enough, if at all.
When you're carrying energy drink in both bottles, lower the concentration in your second bottle
because as you fatigue and heat up, you'll likely prefer less flavor and sweetness. If you're riding hard, it's also important that your energy drink isn't too concentrated. Too rich a mixture can upset your stomach and even slow down or prevent water absorption.
Preparing for a cycling event or race? Be sure to experiment while training to find the drink that's most compatible with your system. That way, you'll be drinking something that works and you won't experience stomach aches or cramping during the important ride. Also, train with bottles and hydration packs to determine which works best. The latter are great for long rides because of their large capacity. Plus, the hose makes it much easier to drink enough. So on bumpy terrain such as in an off-road race/ride they can offer an advantage.
To make sure you're properly hydrated before an event, check your urine. It should be pale yellow or clear. Dark yellow and strong-smelling urine is a reminder to drink a few more glasses of water, although vitamin pills can have a coloring effect as well. Another key sign of proper hydration is having to get up during the night before the event to urinate.
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When the temperatures start soaring, insulated bottles and hydration systems can keep your water cooler, which will help keep your body temperature lower. You can also freeze water in your bottles the night before. But, fill only half way so you can top it off with drink before the ride. The ice in the bottom will chill the liquid for a while. Ice in a hydration pack can also help cool your torso.
Check Your Handlebars For An Easy Way To Increase Comfort
Handlebar-Shoulder Ratio:
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